Photographs copyright © Ray Williams 1999
The box is excessively large for the plastic parts and I found that some of the framing for the nose glazing was damaged - easy for me to repair but sensible packaging would have prevented the problem. There was some evidence of flash / worn moulds but it was slight and could easily be dealt with and the surface detail, mostly fine rivets, is unobtrusive. This is the one thing that could have been unique to the Mk. I as the Mk II differed only in being flush riveted and/or spot welded. Looking hard at photos of Mk. I’s I can see what could be rivets so I would keep them for a Mk. I and remove them for the others (if you feel up to rescribing the panel lines you will lose at the same time). Interior detail is adequate for a ‘straight from the box’ model, the instrument panel decal being a nice touch, but it is not quite accurate and will benefit from work, especially in the empty main cabin which should contain the wireless operator’s seat and equipment as well as wing spars, bomb bay etc..... The transparencies were better than I expected for clarity and thickness but had some moulding marks and scratches from rattling around in transit. Aeroclub offer vac-form nose and cockpit transparencies as well as an improved turret to help out here.
Accuracy was checked with Aviation News plans and the correlation between them and the mouldings was good enough for me to say the kit has no significant problems in outline. Other references which are useful include the Profile (No.253) which has several internal photos, Air International (November 1985) and Scale Aircraft Modelling (May 1991) where the Hudson is the Aircraft in Detail.
Inaccuracies noted were:-
Photographs copyright © Ray Williams 1999
Starting assembly showed that the ‘gates’ on the sprue are larger than on modern kits, I had to use a razor saw to remove the fuselage halves and care is needed on all parts. There was a slight warp on one fuselage half and the alignment of the two halves was not perfect so a few extra tabs from scrap were used to bully non-matching parts to a closer fit. At this point I have to own up and say I have not finished the kit (you’d like the review this millennium wouldn’t you ?) because I am contemplating the modifications necessary to turn it into a Mark I. These include removing the astrodome, changing the oil cooler and carburettor intakes, modifying the exhausts, fitting new propellers with spinners (early Mark Is only ?) and removing the panel lines for the ventral gun (which should be offset to starboard anyway). As a result of the hold-up I cannot say how well the decals go on but they look as if there should not be any problems and separate red centres are provided for the roundels to avoid misalignment in the printing process. Just remember only the 269 Sqdn. option is applicable to the kit ‘as is’ and (I almost forgot to mention it) even then a large ‘hoop’ DF loop should be fitted.
The kit instructions for the colour schemes are different from previous releases with umpteen languages but only Humbrol paint numbers to identify the colours which isn’t a lot of help if, like me, you use acrylics. The basic scheme for both options is Dark Green / Dark Earth upper surfaces and Sky under surfaces with black de-icing boots. Note that the scheme shown in the Profile did not come into use until the second half of 1942 in spite of the incongruity of Dark Earth as a camouflage colour for a maritime patrol aircraft.